Annual St. Marys Chicken Dinner

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In February 1944, Father Charles Phelan was assigned as the new Pastor of our church in the little village of St. Marys, 25 miles south of Des Moines. He was a tall, handsome young Irishman with black wavy hair, a dimple in his chin, a ready smile and a great disposition. I was among a half dozen new youngsters that he started training to serve as Altar Boys, which in those days included learning all the Latin language used in the services. I vividly remember those responses and to this day like to sing the “Our father” in Latin.

One suggestion by Father Phelan to our congregation during his first year was that we have a big parish chicken dinner and celebration in August, and invite everyone from miles around. The idea caught fire and plans were made to involve every member of the parish. Everything was all set by Sunday, Aug. 27, 1944,...even as a youngster only 10 years of age, I remember it well.

My friend Carol Kubik, who wrote some history of that first chicken dinner, in their new 2003 Parish Cookbook reminded me in a visit today that the first 10 years activities of this gala were held in the gymnasium of the St. Marys School. It was a big chore carrying food and supplies up and down the steps even washing all the dishes in the locker rooms. My sister, Theresa, who was one of the teen-age helpers reminded me that despite a rainy morning, a bright and clear sunny afternoon and evening set everything up just right. They had a fine turn out, and thus began an event that has continued each year since.

Let’s see, according to those original records, each family had to fry up a half dozen chickens, bake the same amount of pies, peel about five pounds of potatoes and bring a half gallon of cold milk. Also required was a dozen tomatoes for slicing, five quarts of fresh green beans, a large head of cabbage and some carrots shredded for cole slaw and a jar of pickles or jelly. Wow!

There were assigned tasks for everyone in that little parish and many of those successful procedures remain even to this day. The young ladies worked in the kitchen and their husbands kept busy helping mash the huge mounds of potatoes, slicing tomatoes, washing dishes and keeping the place clean. Teenagers took care of keeping the tables clean and stocked with supplies. Older folks sold meal and raffle tickets and also mingled in the crowd making everyone feel welcomed. The who thing took a lot of coordinating and a number of committees were responsible for keeping the afternoon and evening hours running smoothly.

Many folks kept the same jobs-of-the-day for years on end. I can still see my Aunt Nora McNeer sitting at the ticket table when she was well into her 90’s. Everyone had a good time, and you could tell it by their smiling faces and upbeat attitudes. It was far more than just a chicken dinner ... it was a big community party that lasted from mid-afternoon well into the evening hours.

There was fun and games for young and old alike. Youngsters could play “break the balloons” or spin a wheel of fortune for various prizes. Later on, a dunk-tank was added, which has remained as a yearly attraction. A string of little wagons pulled out and around by a garden tractor was always popular. In the early days a large horse tank filled with water with huge blocks of ice kept beverages nice and cold. How well I remember getting a tall bottle of orange or strawberry pop for only a nickel. Teenagers generally ran the concession stands and they still do.

Lively entertainment for older folks included a whole arena beyond an archway and blinking lights that said “Cheat em Square.” Believe it or not, there was all sorts of open gambling for real money, but again all in fun. Proceeds went for worthy causes ... while the Warren County Sheriff and his deputies merely looked the other way. This adult gambling has died out in recent years, but bingo continues to be played by young and old well into the evening hours.

Since 1999, housewives have not been saddled with frying all those chickens. Staley Foods, a catering company from Charter Oaks brings their “broasting” equipment and prepares the chicken right on the spot. I can testify that it’s darn near as good as the chickens my mother used to fry in big cast iron skillets on our wood fired kitchen range. In 2001, they started using a buffet line for the first time, which tends to speed things along. They continue to serve more than 1000 “down-home” chicken dinners each year from about 3 to 7 p.m., or a little later.

We moved away from our farm near St. Marys back in March of 1946, but many in our extended family still like to go back each year, not only to enjoy the great meal, but to renew acquaintances. This year, it’s on Sunday afternoon and evening, Aug. 2, (always the first Sunday) and I plan to be there!

Olden Days appears on Wednesday in the Newton Daily News. Contact the author at mcneer@pcpartner.net